As a recipient of the Andy Probert Coxswain Top Tips Series, the Coxmate Team would like to invite you to try a demo product free for a fortnight. Contact Peter Hodson or your local country dealer to arrange your free trial.
Read how top Eton College coach - Alex Henshilwood - used the Coxmate in his ‘perfect season’. Click here for the short e-book.
And finally.....
Thank you for sticking with us for two months through the Andy Probert Coxswain Top Tips email series.
How was it for you? We hope you enjoyed this free email series and that you like Coxmate's expert advice. And so we have signed you up to Coxmate's Newletter for more great articles delivered to your inbox once a month. Don't worry, you can unsubscribe at any time if you aren't enjoying our writings.
Give us your feedback - we would really like to know what you thought about the articles. Contact: marketing@coxmate.com.au
Happy coxing!
The Coxmate Team
P.S. You are going to get another little surprise from us - we have an advanced email advice series written by Michael Toon - Olympic coxswain and we think you'll be ready for some more having successfully completed this series!
RACE PREPARATION
This doesn’t take long – go through it quickly and methodically – but leave enough time to do it all.
Get weighed in (generally only need to do this once for regattas).
Make sure Coxmate cox box* has been charged for a good length of time. Plug it in and check the speakers are working and the strokes/bow's seat sets off the timer and rate meter start to timing and get rate.
Check rudder lines won’t break, the toggles/steering lever won't slip and the rudder is aligned and the fin is not bent
Check life jacket is fastened, the inflation toggle visible and you've got a weighing in certificate and minimal set of tools (e.g. screwdriver, rigger jigger, adjustable spanner/wrench, electrical tape).
Check with someone that the crew has been registered to race / checked in and has a bow number (if not, go and do it yourself).
If no one else is doing it, check every rigger to see if the nuts are tight. This involves every rigger top nut with a 13mm spanner, all the rigger nuts with a 10 mm and just test the bottom nuts with an adjustable.
Check race time, lane number or station, when you need to be there (how many minutes in advance in the warm up area and when to progress to the pre-start area) and what the race is before yours (with some idea of the clubs racing in it).
Double check the route to the start and the warm-up / circulation pattern rules.
Attach/check numbers - bow number and one attached to bow’s shirt number(s).
Check which crew is in which lane for your race (multilane) and the position your crew needs to come (in heats) to qualify for the next round.
Put on sunscreen in summer and go to the loo (a "precautionary").
Happy coxing!
Andy
http://www.coxmate.com.au
*Cox box is a trademark of Nielsen Kellerman
Have you discovered our “Resources for coxswains” page on the website? It’s a great place to bookmark for a heap of helpful websites, blogs, videos, books and articles written about coxing.
http://coxmate.com.au/resources-for-coxswains
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Read US Olympic Coxswain, Mary Whipple’s articles for the US rowing magazine
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Get steering guides on all the major head races
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Take a free ebook of the Coxswain’s Log book published by RowEd
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Or how about the Down and Dirty Guide to Coxing and its audio recordings of races?
Don’t forget our Facebook page where you can read more special features not published anywhere else - it’s administrators are all coxes and include University of California Davis - Justin Nool and Antonia McKee. Read what they have to say about college coxing the varsity crews. Coxswain and coach at Cornell and Boston Universities – Meli Mathis is an administrator as well and has written a detailed guide on how to cox the HOCR just for Coxmate readers.
Best Wishes from the Coxmate Team
http://www.coxmate.com.au
STEERING A COURSE 2
In a Rear Loader
The big bloke/girl is in the way of your view – judge more from looking down the sides of the boat - look forward as much as possible, judging if your boat is parallel to the bank or in the centre of the river. Take corners slower than you think or you will cut them and risk touching the bank.
If side-by-side with other crews, steer your own course and keep a close eye on the distance of your crew’s blades from the other crew – 2 or 3 feet off them is ideal. But if you work on keeping a fixed distance you'll be steering off the other crew and that will give them the upper hand (they’ll be steering both crews....and you). Adjust slightly as required - if the other cox is good they’ll be doing the same.
Head racing: Don't follow the boat in front - only the top crews are likely to know the best course - do your own course - which can take some willpower.
Straight lane courses and Henley - either fix your eyes on a specific buoy or vertical post - two or three posts ahead, say - and concentrate so you check that your boat or stroke’s shoulder or two’s rigger, is always in the same position relative to your chosen buoy or post. You can also use the parallax of a real (or imagined) lane, willing your boat to go down the centre. Make steering the uppermost thing in your mind, above calls/instructions to the crew.
Happy coxing!
Andy
http://www.coxmate.com.au
STEERING A COURSE 1
In a Front Loader
Generally aim towards distant objects on the bank as targets for your directional steering (this is harder to do in a rear loader), or on a winding course, steadily change the targets you focus on to bring you round the bend. Check the river banks occasionally to make sure you're not cutting the corner.
Straight-line courses have flags to aim at, or the parallax of the buoys.
Steering Henley (UK) has a convenient church tower to aim at from the start, and then, as you get closer (depending on which station you are racing) one of the three pitched roofs of the pub at the end to refine the course you steer. Keep aiming at those and the boat will go straight.
Occasionally, check the blade tips for distance from buoys, booms or other crews, but don't be panicked into suddenly steering away. If worried, adjust slightly. Believe in yourself.
Also when going through narrow bridges (if you know you’ll fit) aim for the centre of the gap and keep judging that you are in the centre - just believe the blades will fit.
Happy coxing!
Andy
http://www.coxmate.com.au
Thanks for staying with us on Andy Probert’s coxswain training tips guide to improving your coxing skills. Have you told us what you think about the series yet? Send your feedback to us marketing@coxmate.com.au
Can we tempt you?
To thank you for your continued support, we are giving you a 5% discount coupon for any product you buy from our online store. http://coxmate.com.au/online-shop
Take a browse - the Coxmate coxing amplifiers are:
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Coxmate AA - audio only [equivalent to an NK cox vox]
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Coxmate SRT - rate, time, audio [equivalent to an NK cox box]
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Coxmate SX - GPS speed measurement [equivalent to an NK cox box plus speed coach]
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Speaker harness for fours and eights
Anyway, back to that discount we offered you. To get 5% taken off your order, just put in this code when you get to the checkout.
COX10FIVE
Use this coupon code to get 5% off anything in the shop. No upper or lower price limitation and no time limit to redeem.
The SMALL PRINT: Note this does not apply to products purchased from our international distributors’ stores.
Keep it safe until you are ready to buy - but remember, one use per customer. So choose wisely.
Best wishes from the Coxmate team
www.coxmate.com.au
*Cox box is a trademark of Nielsen Kellerman
STEERING
Move the rudder gently – clear gentle movements - in a front loader you need to almost “wish” the boat around corners. In the days of big, old fashioned, flappy rudders, you only steered when the blades were in water – for balance – but they were powerful rudders. Nowadays, tweak the rudder when the blades are in the water (except for Skiff racing....) but you can hold the rudder on longer for more effect – especially with deep fins to hold balance. But be aware that when you straighten up the rudder after steering is complete that can affect the boat balance.
If needed, put the rudder on and leave it on, to get around the big, sharp bends.
For big, sudden steering movements, such as a sharp manoeuvre round another boat or obstruction, or racing turns, such as at the Head of the Charles or Oxbridge bumps – use the crew to help make the turn. You do this by slacking off one side – Call “bring her round bow side / Port”. Then, when the boat is straight, call “equal work”. Make sure you give clear commands.
When racing, get the side who is on the "inside" of the bend to sit up, thus shortening their stoke (and hold their riggers down), and the "outside" to row longer, holding finishes in to bring boat round, and only if vital they can also try rowing harder. [Note: The inside of a bend is the side closest to the direction you are turning towards]. With bumps, the crew can turn the boat on their own - use rudder for fine adjustments – HoCR use the rudder as well for the very big turns.
Happy coxing!
Andy
http://www.coxmate.com.au
Timing
Coxmate cox box* has a clock for most timings - this will do fine for standing start races too. Zero it as a piece starts. Worth re-zeroing it as hand goes down in a race in case stroke has accidently triggered it by moving his slide
Head races have the problem of starting racing before the start line. It's easiest to use the Coxmate to take times - zero it as you cross the start line and click to Hold at the finish - tell the crew the time in case you forget it. But you may need to count strokes if you are calling Rhythm at 15 (your display will say 5) and settle at 1 minute (your display will say 44 secs) because you did your racing start before the start line.
A digital watch with a stopwatch (big, easy to use with cold hands) is useful to avoid this problem - it also is better for giving you the countdown to race start time - and can press buttons and preserve timings without disturbing the Coxmate cox box* . Coxmates have an in-built alarm you can set to go off 5 minutes before race time.
Judging the start / finish lines is tricky when your bows go over the line - better to turn your head sideways and judge when you go over the line and finish line - crew may grumble at the extra stroke but the timing can be spot on (useful if there is query with the official results).
Happy coxing!
Andy
http://www.coxmate.com.au
*Cox box is a trademark of Nielsen Kellerman
Tools
Buy a small robust pack (like a bum bag or a mini stuff-sack) and have in it:
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Rigger Jigger (10mm and 13mm spanner/wrench)
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Small Adjustable spanner / wrench
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Largish straight-head screwdriver (you can get multi-headed screwdrivers)
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Cross-head screwdriver
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Plastic tape
Optional:
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10mm and 13mm spanners (open at one end, closed at the other)
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Some sort of multi-tool with grippers/pliers and a knife
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Tape measure long enough for Oars (4 meters).
They'll all get wet - dry them out after outings. Put something distinguishing on them (tape and/or lettering) so they come back to you.
You need to be able to access them quickly on water and land. Don't get the best - they tend to get lost / dropped in the river and you’ll be buying replacements. Cheap and cheerful is best.
Happy coxing!
Andy
http://www.coxmate.com.au
Clothing
Winter - Keep warm - you'll get cold anyway – coldness causes you to mentally shut down and stop concentrating. It’s the first stage of hypothermia, be aware of its effects.
When you get home, warm up straight away - don't hang around - have a shower or bath and a hot drink (drinking hot Ribena in a hot bath works wonders when you are frozen.)
Welly boots (or warm footwear), warm socks, lots of thin layers (e.g. vest, T-shirt, long sleeve, sweatshirt, skiing thermals, fleece (with arms and armless - possibly both) - tracksuit and waterproofs (cheap, light and strong) - pockets in waterproofs are useful. Note waterproof tops for rowers sometimes have non-waterproof front panels - avoid those.
Kit with club logo is good, but also neutral, un-branded clothing if coxing for more than one club.
Scarves are good - woolly - short and tucked in, or long and wound round - keep the neck warm and seal the gap (so water and cold can't get in).
Caps are better than hats (keeps the rain, sun and hail out of eyes) - put the microphone headband over the top to fix it in place. Thick winter hats are good but anything will do - flaps are fine but not covering ears so can't hear coach, crew or being shouted at. Too much curve on the peak restricts vision - you have to turn your head hugely in a front-loader to look sideways (e.g. to look at opposition's lanes) - your peripheral vision goes.
Gloves are tricky. Wool gets too wet, leather gets ruined, skiing gloves give very little grip and are not flexible enough. Have a hunt around (I found some Timberland skiing gloves that were perfect - flexible with leather patches - with mini-links to join them together when not in use and stops one getting lost). Gloves will always get wet - it's a question of how long it takes and how well they dry.
Front loaders - may need to take off shoes - wear robust socks to avoid abrasion from the hull - and have trainers you get back into with wet socks.
Summer - the danger is getting sunburned and it being colder on the water than you expected. Wear a hat (cap generally - can wear a floppy hat in a front loader) - sunglasses (big - sporty) are good, vital for a front loader - polarising are ideal but expensive. Wear club kit or something neutral and unbranded. Short sleeves will protect your shoulders – long sleeves may be advisable if the sun is very strong. Wear sunscreen (back of neck, face and ears, forearms, hands and legs). Keep kit light and cool - don't worry about waterproofs (just get a bit wet). Important thing is not to feel off-colour because of the sun.
Happy coxing!
Andy
http://www.coxmate.com.au
Are you enjoying your Coxmate coxswain training tips email newsletter? We hope you are finding each article helpful, short and easy to read and put into practice in your own coxing.
Tell us what you think - my email is
peter@coxmate.com.au
- I am Peter Hodson and I started mending cox boxes when my daughter coxed for her school. Taking apart the units to repair them enabled me to use my ‘engineer’s brain’ to see how I could improve them. As a result Coxmate was born; since 1998 I have been designing amplifiers and speed measurement for rowing and sculling.
Coxmate makes electronic equipment for rowing - both for coxed and coxless boats. All our coxswain units fit Nielsen Kellerman speaker systems and are inter-changeable.
Best wishes for your coxing.
Peter Hodson
Coxmate
http://www.coxmate.com.au
*Cox box is a trademark of Nielsen Kellerman
Front Loaders
Get as low and flat as you can - keep the centre of gravity low and look along the canvas - the lower down the more you can feel the boat and the better you steer.
Adjust anything that will adjust - try not to get all the pressure on the head and neck - it causes (long term) injuries - nor hold head up with no support (ditto) - rest most of weight on backrest if possible.
Rudder lines shouldn't be crossed (a confusing old fashioned idea) - stick to “the left goes left”, “and the right goes right”. Rudder bar should be where your arms fall naturally straight - but they usually are fixed and stomach level leaving your elbows in the air (what are boat builders thinking?)
Coxmate cox box* ideally mounted and in the centre (in line of sight) - otherwise just wedge it somewhere so it can be seen and controlled. A boisterous start can mean hanging onto the boat, the Coxmate and the rudder bar simultaneously!
Feet should touch the bulkhead - put some padding down if not (eg polystyrene block or a tracksuit). If the boat is too short there is no real solution - you don't fit. Don't be in a position where the bowman bashes against the top of your head each stroke or you have to move your head out of the way each stroke - both cause neck strain.
Happy coxing!
Andy
http://www.coxmate.com.au
*Cox box is a trademark of Nielsen Kellerman
Thank you for subscribing to the Coxmate coxswain training tips email series.
Over the next 8 weeks you will get one email a week from Coxmate with the next article in the series.
How to use the information:
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Read it immediately - each email is short and designed to be read in under 5 minutes.
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Review it later - Think about what you read and note down in your training diary any ideas that occur to you after reading it. These might be new things to try, old tricks that you haven’t used for a while.
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Share the love - send the message to any of your coaches and club mates who might also find it helpful.
And Now For The First Tip!
Rear/Stern Loader...
Let's get started with the tips - Today's tip is about how to work with boats where the cox sits at the back (stern) of the boat.
Sit up straight - maximises what you can see (look over the shoulders and around the sides when you steer) - better for breathing, confidence... and your back.
Leaning forward may seem cool - but it has no advantages (it's hardly aerodynamic) - and leaning back is just silly.
Move Toggles - arm forming a right angle, not a straight arm stretch - gives full control and don't need to twist body to steer.
Brace feet slightly - don't swing with the boat - stay still - be part of it - how much you're having to work and being jolted tells you a lot about the boat and the skill of the rowers.
Move the toggles when the boat is being rigged - may take a few goes to get it right. Missing toggles (or a broken loop - what were the boat builders thinking when they made those?) - in emergency wrap tape around the wire so you can grip or even make a tape loop - anything to give grip– you can make toggles from grooves in corks and tape them into place.
If the Coxmate cox box* has no holder, try and clamp it between your feet - angle it so you can see it.
The central piece of tape on the wire to show the central position is pointless - it moves and you don't look down there - but make sure the toggles are even on each side.
Happy coxing!
Andy
http://www.coxmate.com.au
*Cox box is a trademark of Nielsen Kellerman
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