Walking on the sea wall around this stretch of coast where sea and river meet brings the past close and an alchemical fusion of personal history and that of the landscape’s own stories and more ancient lore. Watching the tide rise at Heybridge Basin in the hours before the full moon ascends over the shimmering estuary is a meditation on the liminal folkloric nature of this shore. The peninsula to the south has stories of the mysterious Dengie marsh wizards, with their strange cures and eerie traditions – “Break a Lapwing’s egg into a cup of tea”. Country cure from 1950s Tillingham. Standing by the lock gates, which separate the Chelmer and Blackwater Canal from the tidal river you can view Northey Island on the horizon and beyond towards the sea, lie the two larger islands of Osea (Old English: Ōsgȳþes īeg, ‘Osyth's island’) and to the north, Mersea (Old English: meresig, ‘island of the pool’) . Both of which like to keep their secretive interiors hidden from mainlanders. All three islands have tidal causeways, which can only be crossed at certain times, and this creates an otherworldliness that gives each island its unique identity, the isle of Mersea even has its own ghost infested round barrow, that looms from the tree line as soon as you have crossed over the water.
In this low country, where salt hangs heavy in the air, the old-time smugglers, pirates and wildfowler-poachers mapped out their clandestine routes between the islands and into the narrow silty creeks. Ghostly rumours haunted these places, keeping folk at bay on the dark of the moon.
Walking out from the sea-lock and along the strand towards Maldon, as the tide reaches her peak, is a magnificent sight. Old wrecks punctuate the shore and crumbling wooden crane mountings stick out of the rising briny mire, as monolithic markers to a former time, where the industrialisation of the river was intense and mechanical. To my right, I can see the canal snaking inland and, in the foreground, impenetrable saltings break up the scene, giving the coast path the feel of the isolation of a lost island. On my left the tide continues to swell and expand, lapping powerfully against the muddy beach. A Thames Barge manoeuvres past, with her russet red sails billowing majestically, and I momentarily drift back to the past, catching a glimpse of a time one hundred and fifty years ago when these barges sailed up and down the Essex coast, moving goods to and from ports large and small. These barges were once the lifeblood of Maldon's prosperity, facilitating trade of straw, bricks, manure, and horse feed with London. Needing only two crewmen to sail, the flat-bottomed hull enabled the vessel to navigate the winding, shallow creeks of the Essex coast with ease. The dark brooding muddy river feels like a highway that cuts through time, and indeed there are legends that persist on this shoreline that may attest to this reality. One tale is told about the barge Elizabeth, which was sailing back to Maldon’s Hythe Quay on Christmas Eve 1640, when it became stuck in the mud on the receding tide. The barge was marooned for several hours and during this time a thick sea mist rolled in. The two-man crew were experienced sailors but became spooked when they heard a strange buzzing noise overhead and shortly afterwards witnessed a humanoid figure floating in the water, close to the barge. They fished him out and placed him on deck but wished they hadn’t as he began making strange sounds and then began to rip the skin from his head, whilst his large round bulbous eyes stared ominously at them. They tipped him back in the water, and before they could do anything about it, the grotesque humanoid had stolen the small dinghy that the barge had been towing. The two sailors eventually sailed back to Hythe Quay under the cover of darkness, with only the beacon fire pot, glowing from the top of St Mary’s tower allowing them to slide safely and softly into the dark and misty port. A local newspaper report appeared on the 30th December 1940: Christmas Day, 1940: Thomas Harper, a farmer of the Dengie marshes near Maldon, captured a German pilot on Christmas morning. The pilot, still clad in his flying suit, was found asleep in a small dinghy stuck in the mud. He spoke no English and was taken to the farmers house where he had Christmas dinner with the family before being taken away by the police. It is assumed that he had ditched into the sea and had stolen the dinghy to try and escape. The dinghy bore the name “Elizabeth” but no vessel in the region is registered as such. Enquiries continue. I first heard this story from an old friend in the 1980s, and I often recall the eeriness of the tale when walking the lonely footpaths around the estuary. Weirdness abounds in this place, and you don’t have to go far to find it. Just a couple of miles to the south of Maldon, you can witness an ancient and petrified Oak grove, reputed to be 900 years old, and which was said to once have been a sacred enclosure of local druids, and to the north beyond Salcott Creek and Cobmarsh Island, where in the summer the saltings are purple with sea lavender, many folk have witnessed a ghostly Roman centurion walking across the Strood, an ancient tidal causeway, which links Mersea Island to the mainland. This swampy coast also contains a barge graveyard, a melancholy site where many old Thames barges were sunk at the end of their useful lives, and if you travel out to the furthest extremity of the southern bank of the river, you will come to the unique and atmospheric seventh century chapel of St Peter’s at Bradwell-Juxta-Mare. This early medieval church is still in use and holds special Celtic style services in honour of the religious settlements founder, St Cedd of Lindisfarne. Cedd (pronounced Keth) was a prominent member of the old-style Celtic church, which eventually lost its power to Rome at the Synod of Whitby, where Cedd held the role of interpreter. This small and isolated church, standing like a sentinel at the mouth of the Blackwater seeps both history and mystery. This is where Cedd converted the pagan East Saxons. Folklore ebbs and flows on the tide here, with mysterious lights, demonic entities, equine ghosts and shimmering spirits of Centurions from the scant remains of the Roman shore fort of Othona. Personal memories linger here in this lonely land, where the strange plaintive cry of the Curlew and the squeaking cacophony of the Oystercatcher are the songs of the saline shore. Fleeting memories flood back of family days out exploring the old church, picnicking by the saltmarsh and sometimes on the sandy beach beyond. The old church was built from the stone remains of Othona, and for centuries was used variously as a barn, cattle shed, and coast guard look out. It was also secretly used as a store for the illicit cargoes of the eighteenth and nineteenth century Essex smugglers. The Bradwell shoreline also contains a relic from the recent past. The nuclear power station still looms large on the very edge of the estuary. The station began generating electricity in 1962, and I can recall the first time I was consciously aware of the site. It was one of those moments at school that many of my generation would have witnessed, where the conversation turned to the end of the world, and one lad said that his father had told him that Bradwell nuclear power station would kill us all instantly when it was blown up. A couple of years later I watched the BBC TV apocalyptic nuclear war drama Threads. This incredibly bleak story terrified me, but I kept watching right to the end, with a mixture of dread, horror and fascination. Bradwell power station remained an apocalyptic cold war nightmare in my life for many years. The station began decommissioning in 2002 and has recently been clothed in a huge bright white weatherproof cladding, which has apparently made it safe. However, it has also bestowed the landscape with a brutalist dystopian monument, which ironically, perfectly enshrines the insanity of humanity in the late 20th and early 21st centuries. On the opposite side of the wide estuary lies Mersea Island, and a particularly personal chapter of unfolding horror. During my childhood and into my youth I read a lot of books about ghosts and ghost sightings, and one of my favourites was a little book, published in 1973, called Essex Ghosts by James Wentworth Day. The book contains a wealth of folklore and traditional Essex dialect from Mersea Island and the surrounding coast, and this small work led me to some of Wentworth Day’s other works, and these were among the first books that introduced me to folklore, natural history, witchcraft, and a sense of place. Wentworth Day’s prose was sublime – As for the islands of the Essex coast, the long, luminous marshes, the saltings purple with sea lavender, these, the lonely places of sea-mystery… However, Wentworth Day was a High Tory, with extreme racist and homophobic views. As a teenager coming to terms with my own sexuality, I found this both disturbing and unhelpful, to say the least. He once described himself as ‘an antediluvian, a reactionary, an out-of-date ’. My personal teenage folklore narrative had taken a very sinister turn. Nuclear annihilation, the dystopian future of Threads and rural fascism, all within the confines of one beautifully small and peaceful Essex estuary. Wentworth Day was very much a social product of his time and class. I still read his books with fascination, as they truly offer a poetic glimpse into his world of wildfowling and ghost hunting, alongside the folklore, dialect and mystery of the Essex shore (plus many other areas of Britain). However, I believe that we need to call out discrimination in all its ugly forms, and unfortunately Wentworth Day had some of the most extreme views about race and homosexuality, which have no place in a civilised society. I believe that the antidote to all this teenage angst was, and will always be the peace and stark beauty of these lonely and isolated landscapes, such as the Blackwater estuary. Where the grey sea laps at the wild edge of a land of immense diversity. Essex has received a mixed review over recent years, often misunderstood, the stereotypes are well known in popular culture. However, the new towns and sprawl of London’s suburbia contrast superbly with the lonely saltmarsh, muddy creeks and the rivers which cut the land deeply. Each incoming tide can bring fresh perspectives, the perennial ebb and flow, reflecting life, death and rebirth, and maybe the wisdom and inspiration to re-discover the past, and our place within it. For more eerie tales, click the book cover below "Thoroughly steeped in a sense of place...all in all it's a cracking book, and a must be for would-be marsh wizards, psych geographers and folklorists alike" Steve Patterson The Enquiring Eye “a poetic, insight-packed examination of the dance between lore and land” David Southwell. @HooklandGuide "Highly recommended - a very good and informative read" Nigel G Pearson Photographs and words © Alex Langstone. Illustrations © Paul Atlas-Saunders. The Occult Library Interview, December 2024.I recently gave an interview with the guys at The Occult Library, and they have kindly published it to coincide with the winter solstice. It was great fun chatting to them about my younger days, and my first foray into occult publishing back in the 1980s, alongside my more recent efforts. Click link below to view. Enjoy! ASH magazine, first issue. Click image to go to the ASH archive Please see below for some of the promotional videos that my publisher has produced Book launch for The Liminal Shore From Granite to sea promotional video The Liminal Shore promotional video • View comments • Track comments •
Three new editions of Spirit Chaser released today!
Friday 8th November, 2024
Yesterday marked the feast of St Bega, and today heralds the release of the brand-new edition of Spirit Chaser: The Quest for Bega. Published by Troy Books, this version is available in both a resplendent dark blue, limited-edition hardback, and both an unlimited edition paperback and dust-jacketed hardback The special edition hardback is richly embossed in copper, depicting a triple ring and ouroboros motif. This motif, which shines and glistens upon the deep blue background, is one of the central symbols of the veneration of Bega and is often used in the folk-magic surrounding her cult of healing and visionary enchantment. Spirit Chaser is the true story of a spiritual quest that turned into an inspirational occult pilgrimage. In June 1989, the author began following a series of psychic messages and significant synchronicity that led him to discover the enigmatic mystery of St Bega, the sacredness of the British landscape and ultimately to experience the divine reality of the Celtic tradition of mysticism, miracles, and magic. Spirit Chaser takes us on a magnificent journey into the twilight past of seventh century Britain and Ireland, and on a contemporary expedition of re-enchantment. This ultimately led into the heart of a modern-day quest, which uncovered the mystery that is the Sancta Bega, the sacred ring at the mystical centre of the British Isles. Originally published in 2012, this new edition of Spirit Chaser features a foreword by renowned Ogham Grove author and prolific Glastonbury artist, Yuri Leitch. Plus, a brand-new preface, some amendments and new information by the Author. The spectacular front cover art, (above) is by Paul Atlas-Saunders. Based upon a stained-glass window in St Bees Priory, it illuminates St Bega’s moment of arrival upon the beach below the adjacent headland. As her boat lands, she purposefully places her foot on the sacred spot at the very epicentre of the archipelago, which constitutes modern Britain and Ireland. Copies can be ordered from Troy Books Words © Alex Langstone. Art © Paul Atlas-Saunders.
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Witchcraft and Cunning of St OsythThe Witchcraft and Cunning of St Osyth, Essex Alex Langstone Sixteenth century witchcraft features to the fore in the history of the coastal parish of St Osyth in north-east Essex. The history of Mother Kemp and her contemporaries is well documented and for the most part is typical of the way sixteenth century witchcraft cases were recorded, with hearings and evidence from all and sundry who had any grievance. However, Ursula Kemp did have a reputation as a cunning woman, nursemaid and midwife in St Osyth before the rumours of more malevolent practice were presented. She was often called on for her services, which included removing spells, helping young mothers, midwifery, and healing. All these practises were very risky in an age of high infant mortality, superstition, and paranoia. One healing charm she is known to have used is one that she was taught by a local cunning woman called Mother Cocke.(1) This particular arthritis charm used a piece of hog dung and a bunch of chervil. These were mixed and then held in the left hand whilst the mix was pricked three times with a knife held in the right hand. The mix was then thrown on the fire. The knife was then used to make three cuts under the kitchen table and was left there until the arthritis went away. Meanwhile, a jug was then filled with ale, three sage leaves and some yellow flowers of the St John’s Wort. A sip was drunk early morning and before bed until it was all consumed. (2) The arthritis would then be cured permanently. Ursula used this remedy to cure her first recorded clients, Mr and Mrs Page, who had consulted Kemp to cure their lameness. Ironically, the lameness was believed to have been caused by another witch in the village, and this shows that Ursula Kemp was consulted to provide counter-witchcraft charms and cures as a service to the village. Many other villagers were involved in this business of cunning versus sorcery and were subsequently accused of witchcraft. These were Alice Hunt, Alice Newman, Elizabeth Bennet, Margery Sammon, Joan Pechey, Agnes Glascock, Cicely Celles, Anne Swallow, Anis Herd, Joan Turner, Alice Manfield, Margaret Grevell, Mother Ewstace and Mother Barnes. Kemp reported some of them herself during her trial, as did others. Ursula’s downfall seemed to start when she was consulted to help Grace Thurlow’s son Davy recover from an illness. Mother Kemp was successful in helping Davy, and Grace later consulted Ursula to help cure her arthritis, and Kemp used the old charm that she had learned from Cunning Cocke, the wise woman she had once known, and from whom she had learned much of her cunning craft. However, Grace Thurlow fell out with Ursula Kemp when she was charged a shilling for her services and refused to pay. Grace then started to make witchcraft accusations against Ursula and was apparently advised to do this by another (unnamed) village wise woman. Kemp also worked with cunning woman Alice Newman, and both were charged with bewitching Edna Starron. The trial at Chelmsford on 29th March 1582 saw fourteen women from St Osyth on a charge of witchcraft in front of local magistrate, Bryan D‘Arcy. During the trial most of the women blamed each other or made accusations amid a complicated web of deceit, where the witches’ familiars seemed to have been kept remarkably busy with lots of ungodly misdemeanours going on. The familiars included satanic cats, dogs with horns, evil toads, and lambs of Lucifer. The grand finale seems to have been at Michaelmas 1581, where several spirits (familiars) were conjured and raised by various St Osyth witches and were instructed to take a trip out one dark night to burn down the barn belonging to local farmer Richard Ross. By the end of the trial, only two of the women were convicted to hang: Ursula Kemp and Elizabeth Bennet. (3) Of the others, it is not known what happened to them, but there are some interesting descriptions of some of the imps and familiars that were used in their magic. Anis Heard kept rats that had horns and were red and white and looked more like miniature cows, (4) and she also had some blackbirds which assisted her and were housed in a box lined with black and white wool. Margery Sammon had two spirit toads, their names were Tom and Robyn, which she inherited from her mother, who was known as Mother Barnes. Another of the St Osyth witches was Alice Hunt, who was Margery Sammon’s sister. Ursula Kemp had also seen one of Elizabeth Bennet’s imps, a ferret, lifting a cloth which was lying over a pot. (5) Ursula eventually confessed to have kept four imps of her own. Tyffin and Jack were used to kill, and Pigine and Tyttie to cause lameness and other minor afflictions. Bryan D‘Arcy continued to deceive Ursula by saying that he would treat her with clemency if she continued to help him with his inquiries. She was locked up for the night in the village cage and the following morning, D‘Arcy continued to question her. It is at this point that Ursula Kemp begins to reveal the identity of the rest of the village cunning women and witches, still believing that she would be set free. From this point D’Arcy was in full-on mania mode, questioning children as young as eight years old, to get the results he both required and desired. (6) It is impossible to think about all these women of St Osyth without wondering what was really going on here. There is a theory about a Catholic plot at the time of D’Arcy’s investigations. Queen Elizabeth’s government were getting paranoid, and D’Arcy had already investigated a previous case of sorcery, where in 1580, several conjurors had been rounded up in Essex (7) and sent to London to be examined by the Privy Council. Catholic plotters John Lee, Thomas Glascocke and Nicholas Johnson were thought to have been responsible. Around the same time D’Arcy had investigated a local thirteen-year-old boy named Thomas Lever, who was imprisoned in the county jail in Colchester, accused of being a sorcerer’s apprentice to William Randall. Randall was a magician from Ipswich who worked in Essex as an occultist treasure-hunter, who used magic to find buried artefacts. Randall had been one of the conspirators sent to London and was thought to be one of the leading members of a group of magicians who met in Halstead. This group was accused of raising spirits to guide them to lost treasures and other rich pickings. Of course, Lever’s mother was terrified for her teenage son, and contacted the Privy Council, whereupon Thomas Lever was released without charge. (8) In 1921 two skeletons were unearthed in St Osyth by local resident Mr Brooker, who was digging in his garden in Mill Street. The burials were orientated north-south, rather than the more usual east-west. Rumours quickly spread that it was the remains of Ursula and Elizabeth. Local newspapers reported on the finds and told of how the bones were impaled into the ground with iron spikes and chains. The skeletal remains became a paid for side show in an early attempt at encouraging dark tourism to the area, and a stream of visitors came to view Ursula Kemp’s remains for sixpence a view. One skeleton was well preserved, the other was in an extremely poor condition. Eleven years later the cottage adjoining the grave site mysteriously burned down, and the graves were filled in. Then, in 1963, the famous Museum of Witchcraft based in Boscastle, Cornwall heard that the bones of Ursula Kemp had been exhumed and contacted Mr Brooker’s son-in-law. The owner of the Witchcraft Museum, Cecil Williamson, purchased the skeleton, and recalled that when he went to lift the bones, he noticed the iron spikes or nails that had been driven through her body. Below are the original words written by Cecil Williamson that accompanied her display in the museum. Having been executed as a condemned witch, Ursula Kemp was denied burial by the church in consecrated ground. So, her body was returned from the place of execution to her native village of St. Osyth and buried in common land. While digging for gravel, in 1921, her body was unearthed, identified, and put on public show at the spot where she was found. In 1932, the cottage tea-room adjoining the grave site was burnt down and the grave filled in. In 1963 the museum was asked to take over and remove her remains in order to make way for a sewage scheme. This was done, after first obtaining a ruling from the home office of undertaking. It is of interest to note that when I came to lift the bones, I discovered that iron spikes had been driven through her body in order to hold her down in the grave and so prevent her from haunting the village. Such was the fear of witches in those days. Some of the iron spikes are to be seen beside the coffin. (9) But Ursula Kemp’s story did not end there. In 1999, Plymouth artist Robert Lenkiewicz purchased the skeleton from Cecil Williamson to add to his already huge collection of artefacts and library of occult books. Lenkiewicz died in 2002 aged 60, and his library, many of his paintings and the remains of Ursula Kemp remained in his St Saviour’s studio in Plymouth, whilst the lengthy process of probate was conducted. Eventually, with the permission of The Lenkiewicz Foundation, an archaeological investigation and appraisal of the skeleton was undertaken by Jaqueline McKinley of Wessex Archaeology. Through this investigation much information has come to light. These discoveries were interesting, though they did not concur with the historic narrative. It is highly likely that the iron spikes were driven into the bones in 1921, when the skeleton was discovered by Mr Brooker. More importantly it is now known that the skeleton was that of a male in his early twenties. Interestingly, his remains have been dated to the same period of the sixteenth century as Ursula Kemp. Did he know Ursula? More importantly why was he buried in un-consecrated ground on a north-south axis. There are rumours of other skulls and bones that were discovered in the 1963 exhumation, (10) including a skull with the head of a spear embedded in it. (11) The bones that were once thought to be the remains of Ursula Kemp have now been buried in a quiet corner of St Osyth village cemetery by the junction of Clay Lane, just a short walk from the site in Mill Street, where the remains were first discovered by Mr Brooker in 1921. A newspaper report from the Clacton and Frinton Gazette, dated 22nd January 2016, finally puts more information in place surrounding the myth and lore of the Ursula Kemp story. Paul Scolding, the grandson of Mr Brooker tells his tale, and shares his memories of the events surrounding the remains and confesses that his grandfather did indeed add the iron nails to the burial, to give more credence to it being the grave of a witch. Paul goes on to say that he was the person who eventually uncovered her before she was sold to the Museum of Witchcraft. He describes the burial place, as he uncovered it in 1963. There was a very long spine, pure white teeth and nails through the knees and elbows, which turned out to be 18th century. There was a skull beneath Ursula’s feet and to the right there was another skeleton. (12) In the centre of the village, in Colchester Road lies The Cage, an historic old village lock up, built of brick with a solid wooden door. It is often cited as an old prison, but in reality, it was a building used to hold suspects whilst they were being questioned or until they could be transported to the courts or be brought in front of a magistrate. The cage would also have been used for holding drunks until they had sobered up. Every village would have had something similar, and further down the coast at Tollesbury, a wooden Cage can still be seen. St Osyth’s cage was in use as a holding cell from the sixteenth century to the early twentieth century. Ursula Kemp and her associates would have been held there whilst they were being questioned by Bryan D’Arcy and before they were sent for trial at Chelmsford. The cage (pictured above) was closed in 1908, and it became a local curiosity until the 1970s, when it was converted into an extension for the neighbouring cottage. You can still see the old wooden door and the brick surround that was once the village cage for St Osyth, preserved as the ground floor house extension. It remains a private dwelling, though a plaque on the external brick wall tells its story. It is reputed to be haunted and a there is a book available about the paranormal phenomena that a recent owner experienced. (13) The above excerpt is taken from my book - The Liminal Shore: Witchcraft, Mystery & Folklore of the Essex Coast, published by Troy Books. Click on the cover below to buy now. "Thoroughly steeped in a sense of place..all in all it's a cracking book, and a must be for would-be marsh wizards, psych geographers and folklorists alike" The Enquiring Eye “A poetic, insight-packed examination of the dance between lore and land.” David Southwell "Highly recommended - a very good and informative read" Nigel G Pearson Notes. 1. Essex Witches by Glynn H. Morgan, p 25 2. Popular Magic: Cunning-folk in English History by Owen Davies, p 110 3. Essex Witches by Peter C Brown 4. East Anglian Witches and Wizards by Michael Howard 5. Witchcraft in England by Christina Hole 6. Essex Witches by Peter C Brown, pp 23 - 29 7. Witchcraft in England, 1558-1618 by Barbara Rosen, p 103 8. East Anglian Witches and Wizards by Michael Howard, p 43 9. A typed interpretation panel on card, written by Cecil Williamson, concerning the story of the burial and remains of Ursula Kemp, a condemned and executed witch. Cecil Williamson Object Label Collection, Museum of Witchcraft & Magic collection, Boscastle, Cornwall. 10. Ursula Kemp DVD by John Worland. Fade to Black Television. 11. Letter to This Essex magazine, October 1973 from S. C. Bruce of St Osyth 12. Clacton and Frinton Gazette. 22nd January 2016. 13. Spirits of the Cage: True Accounts of Living in a Haunted Medieval Prison by Richard Estep and Vanessa Mitchell. © Alex Langstone
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